Hear the Heartbeat

Hear the Heartbeat

Intro

Where Sophia’s ear is

Shortly after I got back from Ireland last summer I discovered an event at Troon Country Club called the Hawk Talk was scheduled for November 18th. I signed up for it right away. I was hoping it would be interesting like my experience several years ago at the Burren Birds of Prey Centre that I visited with Kevin’s family in County Clare. I wrote a story about it: “Hear the Heartbeat.” 

The Troon CC Hawk Talk was conducted by Master Falconer, Tiffany White, with Sonoran Desert Falconry. Along with her colleague, Sally Knight (a General Falconer and the co-founder of Sonoran Desert Falconry) they dazzled us with birds in their care like Dracarys, the Harris’ hawk. They introduced us to Uno the Kestrel and Zeke the Peregrine falcon. But it was Sophie the Barn owl that stole my heart.

 

 

The Hawk Walk

Kevin’s daughter, Nicola McGrath, and her husband, David Boyle, came down from Dublin to Clare for a visit with their two boys, Adam and Simon.

David drove us to the Burren by way of Corkscrew Hill. The narrow road was just like it sounds. 

The Bateleur eagle with his handler | the Burren Birds of Prey Centre, Ireland

We reached the aviary where they house the Birds of Prey, which include eagles, falcons, hawks, vultures and owls from all over the world. We continued to the grass arena with the magnificent hills of The Burren in the background. We watched the handler perform with “Batty” the Bateleur eagle. We were told she could fly up to 200 miles a day, but could only sustain a wing beat for two to three minutes. Bateleur is French for “tight-rope walker,” describing the bird’s characteristic habit of tipping its wings when it flies. She was a magnificent, very large and quite fluffy bird, predominantly black with a gorgeous streak of red plumage down her back. 

A couple of other birds did perform, one being an American owl who although he looked quite large, only weighed 2 lbs. He was “built for stealth — very quiet.” All the birds put on quite a show, but did “not fly for fun.” Their handler quipped, “This is a business relationship! We make the most of their laziness and they make the most of our generosity,” as he fed them little morsels of food throughout their performance.

With the demonstration over, it is now time for our Hawk Walk. There was a tinge of trepidation when I learned that Nicola and David had designated me as the one to ‘fly the hawk.’ “Are you sure David shouldn’t be the one to do this?” “No, Taba, it’s going to be you.”

Our instructor and hawk handler, Jamie, appeared with Eric the Harris’ hawk. As I slipped the elbow length glove over my left hand, Jamie untied Eric from his glove and transferred the raptor over to me. Then he tied a falconry knot entirely with his right hand only, informing us, “You must be able to do everything with one hand and it’s always the right hand.” “Why is that?” we all asked in unison. “So you can draw your sword if you have to!”

The hour walk through the Hazel woodland was full of wondrous facts, starting with the sport of falconry. Jamie told us the Chinese and Japanese have been hunting with birds of prey for some 3,000 years, but the Harris’ hawk was only recently introduced in the late 60’s.

Taba with Eric the Harris hawk

After a few minutes, I got comfortable with Eric, who perched on my glove, just so. It was amazing to be eyeball to eyeball with this beautiful creature. He would often fly away and be “called back” with a little bit of meat placed on my glove. Eric would always fly to a branch high in a tree and swoop down in a second or two, making a perfect landing every time.

At first I kept my eyes closed when I saw him coming, as his wing span was easily three feet and I wasn’t sure where those wing tips would wind up! Eric would tuck his feathers in precisely at the last possible second so they never touched my face. I relaxed and got more confident, and stared right at his intense eyes, while he zeroed in on his “reward” that Jamie placed on my glove.

 

Eyes Like a Hawk

I will forever have new respect for the phrase, “Eyes like a hawk.” They are small, but penetrating. Brown just like mine. Maybe that’s why I bonded so well with this bird. It turns out that southern Arizona is part of their natural habitat. They even nest in saguaro cactus, which explains why coyotes would be their most feared predators when they are on the ground.

The top of the beak is bright yellow with little nostrils, becoming a dark grey color and then white at the sharp tip. The legs were equally yellow, each with four powerful talons. His feathers are mostly brown, with a reddish color blending in where the wings attach, and then his tail feathers are tipped with white.

Adam asked Jamie lots of very intelligent questions, like “What do they eat?” “Rabbits, mice and other small animals,” said Jamie. “Would they eat other birds?” Adam wondered. “Yes they would,” affirmed Jamie.

Harris hawk with a handler | the Burren Birds of Prey Centre, Ireland

David followed the line of questioning, “When they are in the wild, do they hunt cooperatively?” “Yes they do,” explained Jamie, “one or more might scout the prey and another swoops in to attack.” (Note: Tiffany told us it is the female “that closes the deal.”)

“These Harris’ hawks are very social,” informed Jamie, “and very easygoing around people.” Eric did seem perfectly happy in his well-learned role to fly away and back to us as we followed a path through the woods…often varied to avoid predictability.  Every now and then, he made a short, high-pitched sound, as if to let us know where he was. 

“When he flies up high in the tree, is he looking for something to eat? Will he leave and never come back,” queried Adam. “Yes, although he really couldn’t survive in the wild, he has never lost his instincts. Every now and then he does catch something!” 

We learned that all the little bits of food, in this case chicken, were stored in a pouch to be eaten later. Sure enough, as the walk progressed, we could see the bulging pouch. “He only eats raw food, never cooked food,” Jamie clarified. Adam worked it out, “That would be chicken sushi.” 

 

Hear the Heartbeat

Jamie also told us, “The hawk can see much better than us but doesn’t have peripheral vision, which means he has to turn his head if he wants to see something not straight ahead.” Adam wondered, “Does he hear much better than us, like an owl?” “Hawks hear very well, but the owl has much more acute hearing. Owls actually have one ear higher than the other and they find their prey by hearing, not by seeing. In fact, even though they have big eyes, they can’t see well up close. If a mouse was right under an owl, the owl wouldn’t see him.”

Adam wanted to know, “Couldn’t the owl smell the mouse?” “No, but he could hear the heartbeat.” Hear the heartbeat.  Now that was amazing. 

The owl could hear the heartbeat of its pray

Finally we headed to the Birds of Prey Center to join up with Nicola and Simon, who was now getting his second wind. Back to the arena we went.

This time we got to see the handlers fly two Harris’ hawks together, a brother and sister, the female being about one third larger. Again, we were told that they are very social and easygoing, completely different from the falcons, which are much more high-strung. They are hooded to calm them down. The largest of the falcons, the Peregrine, is the fastest animal on earth, achieving speeds of 200 mph. (Note: Tiffany told us a Peregrine has been clocked at 220 mph.)

White-backed Vulture with its handler | the Burren Birds of Prey Centre, Ireland

Our flying display concluded with a pair of massive White-backed Vultures, which were surprisingly beautiful. The pair were named Henry and Dyson, after two models of the Hoover vacuum cleaner! Their names are funny, but their endangered status is not. Members of the Gyps family, they are suffering from an extremely rapid population decline.

After such a special day of many wondrous things, David guided our flock back to our nest in Liscannor, electing not to return by the Corkscrew road, and instead taking another scenic road which hugged the coast for part of the journey.  

I was securely wedged between the two boys, who promptly fell asleep in their car seats. Not a peep out of either one of them as we wove our way through the Burren landscape. They are so sweet and peaceful. I think I can just about hear their heartbeat.

You Can Call Me Alice

You Can Call Me Alice

Phipps Conservatory in Pittsburgh – a place full of wonder!

I should have been named Alice like the girl from Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. No kidding. The day Mary Bernacki took me to the Phipps Conservatory in Pittsburgh, I felt like I fell down another rabbit hole! (I’m so good at doing this I should probably have a series called My Rabbit Hole Experiences.)

Well, Alice fell down a rabbit hole, but I went willingly with Mary to a magnificent place full of wonder. This was one afternoon during the Golf Heritage Society (GHS) National Convention conference just before our Gala Dinner at our hotel in Monroeville, PA.

There was no White Rabbit, but there were TROLLS to greet us. Adorable, colorful, talking trolls. Mary has probably been through the Phipps hundreds of times, since she grew up in this part of Pittsburgh. She and her husband Bern, president of the GHS, are both native Pittsburghers.

 

“Here, take my land” –  original gift that keeps giving

Mary had first taken me for a drive through the lush, hilly Schenley Park, which is the setting for the Phipps, on the way home from the airport a few days before. My guide told me the land had been donated by a woman named Mary Schenley, who, when she got married went to Europe, and said, “Here, take my land.” This was back in 1889. It was no small gift — we’re talking about 300 acres!

This is a fascinating story all by itself. When she was young, Mary Croghan attended a boarding school in downtown Pittsburgh. At about age 16, she eloped and married Capt. Edward W. Schenley of the Royal Navy.

The land that Schenley owned was willed to her by her pioneer grandfather, James O’Hara. For that story we have to backtrack to when O’Hara emigrated from Ireland in 1772. He had successful careers as a soldier, a businessman, and a federal official. O’Hara worked as a trader and Indian agent, and also served as an officer in the Third Virginia Regiment during the War of Independence. Obviously along the way, he amassed a considerable amount of land.

O’Hara’s generous granddaughter also contributed five acres of land for the Western Pennsylvania School for the Blind. Mary Schenley did more. She gave the Old Blockhouse to the Daughters of the American Revolution, and she gave the city of Pittsburgh another nineteen acres where the Carnegie Museum now stands. What an incredible woman.

 

Phipps started with a great vision

Then along comes another philanthropist — Mr. Henry W. Phipps. He declared that he wanted to “erect something that would prove to be a source of instruction as well as pleasure to the people.”

His vision started with a structure designed by Lord & Burnham, a New York-based greenhouse manufacturer, for a fee of $100,000. The original nine display rooms were completed in August of 1893. When the building opened to the public, many plants originating from the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago were featured. After its founding, Henry Phipps continued to serve as the Conservatory’s benefactor until his death in 1930 at the age of 91.

 

15 acres and 14-room glasshouse with 23 distinct gardens

This remarkable place has continued to grow like the extraordinary plants it houses. The Phipps now encompasses fifteen acres and includes a 14-room glasshouse with 23 distinct gardens.

We got a tantalizing taste of the seasonal exhibit ahead of Halloween in a room full of pumpkins, decorated with ghosts, witches and bats hanging from the ceiling.

From orchids to an amazing bonsai collection, there is just about no end to the beauty. There is even an enormous model railroad with a very complex layout.

Unless you popped outside for a moment like we did, you wouldn’t even know about the Center for Sustainable Landscapes. It is the first and only building to meet six of the highest green certifications. Sadly, we didn’t have time to go inside, but what didn’t I get to see? Here is a for instance — there is a new exhibit called “Planets Earth” that looks at the problem of resource use, climate change, and other environmental issues. I read online that the exhibit identifies ways of thinking that drive conventional decision making, and it offers courageous new paths toward changing the way we interact with the world.

We did have a few more rooms to go through before exiting the way we came in. That meant we got to see an entire exhibit on Cuba with a wide variety of exotic plants, a birding station, and even learn about natural medicines that might be found in Cuba that are rooted in organic farming. Traveling to this magical tropical environment made it that much harder to tear ourselves away.

A dazzling Chihuly sculpture

Just as we were about to leave from our marvelous indoor universe, I was stopped in my tracks when I discovered a dazzling, large-scale Dale Chihuly sculpture. The intricate array of bright yellow, blown glass pieces was suspended from the metal supports of the roof in a stunning, organic display.

The monumental Chihuly was as energizing as the sunlight that greeted us as we emerged back into the outdoor scenery. For sure, this was the best damn rabbit hole I have ever stumbled into.

Golf Heritage Society Experience

Golf Heritage Society Experience

GHS Outing at Latrobe Country Club — Arnold Palmer Country

The first time I went to Europe I was eighteen years old. I came back to the U.S. six months later and was a different person. When I went to the Golf Heritage Society Annual Conference in Pittsburgh I came back five days later and was a different person. I was amazed and delighted beyond words. The people I met, the things I saw, the laughter I shared — the complete GHS experience — changed me.

Let’s start with the GHS outing at Latrobe Country Club — Arnold Palmer Country. What an extraordinary event from top to bottom. Thank goodness the weather was superb. I’m sure our host and incoming GHS Vice President, Bob Muir, was sweating bullets over that and a myriad of other items. Like having an outdoor wedding, right?

It couldn’t have been more perfect. And, so many of us had our picture taken with Arnie’s ancient Toro tractor. It was a special way to feel a connection to The King, and all that he represented, both on and off the course.

Then there was the energy of longtime Latrobe fixture, and Arnie’s Amigo Number One: John Rusbosin. No detail was overlooked. Whatever the question, John always had the answer. He worked tirelessly and always with a smile.

You ask about other Arnie’s Amigos? Front and center were Carol and Denny Clawson. These people are so generous and genuine. Among other things, they organized the putting contest by the first tee and raised a ton of money for the Winnie and Arnold Palmer Foundation.

I was supposed to help out but I found myself so engaged with the huge number of people who registered to play — some hickory, some classic clubs, all I did was take six tries at hitting a gutty ball into a far away hole and barely came close.

This was really my first exposure to some of the 900+ members who are active golfers and there are many. The men sometimes wore plus-fours, and Gillian Alexander’s mother and grandmother, Clara Lochmiller, and Carolyn Lochmiller, dressed in period costume — complete with parasol. They all lent an elegant note to the genial atmosphere. Speaking of notes, a special shout out goes to the Greater Latrobe School District Band that sent our spirits soaring when they played the Star Spangled Banner.

When Bob Muir and his foursome, which included Leila Dunbar, George Petro, and Pio Adamonis, made the turn and teed off on the first hole, myself and my friend, Mary Nokes, who came up from the DC area, decided to follow their group. When we got down to the green, Bob said, “If you go across the road and continue up the hill, you can see Arnold’s office. There is an umbrella over the door.”

Mary and I took off in our cart and did exactly that. Bob also pointed out, “On the right is the family home and on the left is a modern house where Arnie lived with Kit after Winnie died.” That was a special side trip that very few people got to do.

 

CLICK ON THE ARROWS TO VIEW PHOTOS FROM THE GHS ANNUAL CONFERENCE 2021

Latrobe Country Club

Latrobe Country Club

Arnold Palmer’s office with umbrella

Arnold Palmer’s trophy case

Masters Tournament trophy 

George Petro in plus-fours (left) and Clara Lochmiller with Carolyn Lochmiller in costumes

Latrobe school band 

Taba and Mary Nokes

Carol and Denny Clawson in a putting contest at Latrobe

Taba and James Kaiser holding hickory clubs

Rich Five Days with Many Events

Golf Art Symposium: This was organized and moderated by Frank Cantrel, a board member and art lover. This segment was a wonderful opportunity to see artwork in many media up close and personal. The three artists, Steph Moraca, Keith Campbell, and Bob Fletcher, all contributed works to the auction. They enlightened us with their answers to Frank’s questions about what triggered their interest in golf art, what was their process like, and how did they handle commissions. Very entertaining and educational. (Linda Hartough and George Lawrence were meant to join us remotely but the hotel internet let us down that morning.)

Presentations: There were many. I was particularly fascinated by Rand Jerris, Ph.D, the Senior Managing Director, Public Services of the USGA. Rand singled out sheet music focused on golf that they held in their massive collection. It was truly fascinating. Along with Peter Lewis, he is publishing a book about this unique category of literary works. Rand also showed us renderings of what the new USGA museum will look like in PInehurst including floor plans for the 16,000 square foot building.

Banquet Dinner: I had asked Jan Bel Jan, the immediate past president of the American Society of Golf Course Architects to sit with me for this dinner. She was easy to spot in her red tartan jacket — which is a tribute to Donald Ross — one of the founders of their organization in 1946. The keynote speaker was the legendary Bob Ford, longtime Head Professional of both Oakmont Country Club and Seminole Golf Club in Juno Beach, Florida.

Jan, a native of Monroeville, PA, knows Bob well. Her entire family also knew the Palmers intimately. In fact, Jan told me that her uncle Carl often played in pro-ams with Arnold Palmer decades ago. Arnold was the amateur! (Watch this space — more to come on Jan Bel Jan.)

There were a great many Awards and Recognitions, including the Harris-Wolke Award, Golden Quill Award, and GHS Advancement Awards. It is hard to express my admiration for the dedication of so many people for so many years. Just being in the audience while the accolades were bestowed was so heart warming. It is hard to put into words.

Another highlight of the dinner was the ceremony of the four inductees to the Golf Heritage Society Hall of Fame. They are: Pete Georgiady, Dr. Michael Hurdzan, Glenn Moore, and Bill Reed. These extraordinary men represent nearly 200 years of dedication and vitality to the GHS.

The trade show: I know that the GHS was originally called The Golf Collectors Society. As a new member, and a new board member, I got to really see the heart and soul of this organization.

 

CLICK ON THE ARROWS TO VIEW PHOTOS FROM THE GHS ANNUAL CONFERENCE 2021

John Rusbosin and Rives McBee (left) and Bob Muir, chair of the 2021 GHS 50th Anniversary Celebration and National Convention (right)

GHS trade show floor at the conference.

GHS trade show

The three artists, Keith Campbell, Bob Fletcher, and Steph Moraca

Bill Reed, left, Pete Georgiady, and Dr. Michael Hurdzan – GHS Hall of Fame 2021 inductees

Taba with Pete Georgiady (left) and Bern Bernacki

(From left)Brad Baird, Gillian Alexander, Frank Cantrel Jr., Taba Dale and George Petro – award recipients

A group of ardent collectors who LOVE the game, its history and traditions!

This is truly an amazing group of ardent collectors who LOVE the game, its history and traditions. You will not find a more passionate core group of golf enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Unless you consider the British Golf Collectors Society, that was formed AFTER the GHS. That’s right. We predate them and we are celebrating our 50th anniversary!

Here’s to us! We are awesome. And with your help we will grow our membership and brand awareness exponentially by leaps and bounds.

If anybody is looking for passion and appreciation of the heritage and history of golf — it’s here! And nobody embodies all these qualities more than our esteemed president, Dr. Bern Bernacki. Big thanks also have to go to Bern’s wife, Mary, who is an angel and guiding light to our inspired leader, and therefore, our entire organization.

Next up: The GHS is scheduled to participate in the GIS/Golf Course Superintendents Association of America conference in February in San Diego.

Poisonous Beauty

Poisonous Beauty

Late Summer is a special time in the desert in Scottsdale. With so many plants in bloom, all the pollinators, and especially the butterflies, have been very busy.

While out on an early morning walk I was intrigued by the amount of activity around the Red Bird of Paradise bush (Caesalpinia pulcherrima). I hope I got the genus right this time — if I didn’t, my friend Jan Bel Jan (and golf course architect extraordinaire) will let me know!

I stood still, fascinated by the gigantic black butterflies flitting all about this bush. Since I wasn’t sure what they were, I sent a photo to Derek Kellogg, the Entomologist at Butterfly Wonderland, to ask him to identify them.

Here is his reply:

“That is a pipevine swallowtail. While their range goes through Arizona, they are not commonly found down here in the valley as their host plant, pipevine (Aristolochia) does not handle the dry conditions very well.

They are neat butterflies. Pipevines are quite toxic, and the butterflies use the toxins from the plant to defend themselves from predators. A lot of other swallowtails (spicebush, black, female tiger) mimic pipevine swallowtails to try to trick predators into thinking that they are toxic too. This is why they all tend to look alike.”

I did a little more research and learned that many swallowtail butterflies spend the winter as chrysalises, tucked into crevices in logs, or underneath loose bark on trees.

Like Derek also said: “Keep your eyes peeled! You might see more!”

Butterfly Madness

The desert is waking up.

I’m engrossed watching a roadrunner.
Long tail rises up and down.
It suddenly spins around
and goes off in another direction.

The cottontails are hopping about.
Too often stopping
in the middle of the road.
Hurry bunny rabbit. Hurry.

There is a faint hint
of coolness in the air.
It’s so delightful
on my bare skin.

A crescendo of
chirping and birdsong
envelopes me
as I scan the trees.

I can’t see the birds
but whoa! I come upon
the red bush full of
frantic butterflies.

Their size is arresting.
Their wingbeat is mesmerizing.
Their color is astonishing.
Their dance is magical.

Tipping Point

Tipping Point

St Patrick’s on the Edge of the Picturesque Sheephaven Bay

In 2018, when my partner, Kevin McGrath, and I were in France we heard rumors about a new golf course that Tom Doak was designing in Ireland. Kevin and I were part of the festivities at the course Tom had designed for the Mourgue D’Algue family in Bordeaux called Grand Saint-Emilionnais Golf Club.

There was talk floating around about Tom going to Ireland in the air. Our antennae were up because we live in Ireland (near Lahinch) so we were very keen to keep tabs on it.

Now it has actually opened, a couple of months ago. This is the third course at Rosapenna, located on the edge of the picturesque Sheephaven Bay.

The First Course – the Old Tom Morris Links

Tom Morris statue overlooking the course

The first course, known as the Old Tom Morris Links, opened in 1893. Old Tom had been a guest of Lord Leitrim at his estate in 1891, and while enjoying the Donegal scenery he noticed a fine stretch of inviting coastline. Before returning to St Andrews, Old Tom staked out the first Rosapenna Links over the undulating terrain of the dunes. Harry Vardon and James Braid added length and more detailed bunkering in 1906. Further changes were made by Harry Colt in 1911. In 2009, the new Strand Nine opened at Rosapenna to replace the original back nine that had you playing across the main road on a number of holes.

 

The Second Course – Sandy Hills Links at Rosapenna

Pat Ruddy, golf course architect

The second course, Sandy Hills Links at Rosapenna, opened for play in June 2003. The Irish golf architect, Pat Ruddy, in collaboration with Rosapenna owner, Frank Casey Sr., created one of Ireland’s finest modern links courses. Pat’s design is both bold and seductive. He designs for the serious golf enthusiast. While the course stretches to over 7,200 yards, with sensational views of mountains and sea, it blends sympathetically with the Old Tom Morris Links.

 

 

The Third Course – St Patrick’s Links at Rosapenna

Our day to play St Patrick’s Links (course #3) at Rosapenna, dawned with cloudy skies. Not a whisper of wind…until we got to the course, that is.

Sound the horns. We’re off. And what an adventure it was. Captivating… Check. Memorable… Check. Muscular… Check. Has that I-Want-To-Go-Play-It-Again factor… Check.

This newest Tom Doak course is laid out over land that had been a 36-hole facility developed by the Walsh family of Carrigart. It was known as The Maheramagorgan Links, designed by Irish architect Eddie Hackett, and the Trá Mór Links were designed by PGA Professional Joanne O’Haire. Both courses opened for play in the mid-1990s.

Tom Doak, golf course architect

The Rosapenna Golf Resort acquired the land in 2012. Discussions with Tom Doak ensued, and with his lead associate, Eric Iverson, the layout was finalized in March 2013. Construction began in April 2018, with all of the greens completed in 2019.

Behind the big project for #3 course is a group of founding members including Frank & John Casey of the Rosapenna Hotel & Golf Resort and architect Tom Doak who had funded the construction of the new 18-hole course in a partnership between The Casey Family who have owned and operated Rosapenna since 1981, along with Tom Doak’s Renaissance Golf Design.

 

St Patrick’s – A Must-Play Heroic Course!

It is cleverly laid out as two loops of nine, returning to a temporary Links House where you check in and get a scorecard. The St Patrick’s logo is distinctive and ultra cool. Be sure to pick up a cap, putter cover, or towel to add to your collection.

I was impressed when I discovered there is a Forward Scorecard. Playing from the Claret tee markers, the overall yardage was a testing 5,136. On the not-so-puny-par-3s, where I had the best chance to par the hole, I needed to hit a driver into the wind, or at least a 7-wood. Total yardage of the par-72 course is 6,826 yards.

On all the par-4s and par-5s the landing areas are very generous. But when the wind whips up, as it often does, it can grab your ball and send it rolling faster over the undulating links land. The fairways need a bit of maturing; but all the quirk that we links lovers crave is part of the excitement of playing over centuries-old dunes.

St Patrick’s Links (course #3) at Rosapenna – a must play heroic course!

Upon arriving on the first tee, you’ll see a sign indicating the club length you’re allowed to move your ball to a more-grassy lie. The turf and green surfaces have a way to go before they mature; but even before they do, there is no doubt that Ireland now has another must-play course that will top all the lists. This one is heroic.

Our first go-around, the course was absolutely intoxicating and we’re dying to come back soon.

A Tipping Point

We’ve reached a tipping point. It’s official now, as if it wasn’t already, this northwest corner of Ireland is a bona fide golf destination unto itself. A perfect itinerary includes Ballyliffin, St Patrick’s, County Sligo (Rosses Point), Narin & Portnoo, Donegal Golf Club (Murvagh), Carne and Enniscrone. An enchanting week in pure golf heaven.

Perfect Peninsula

Perfect Peninsula

Discovering the Perfect Peninsula

The Dublin part of our journey with the panelists concluded at Portmarnock Golf Club. Although formally “founded” in 1894, the book entitled A Centenary History by T.M. Healy, published in 1994 reveals:

W.C. Pickeman

“On Christmas Eve of 1893 a Scottish Insurance broker named W.C. Pickeman and his friend George Ross rowed over from Sutton to the peninsula of Portmarnock to scout out the land as a possible golf links. They liked what they found.”

Indeed they did, and so did we on yet another glorious day of sunshine.

But in fact, the ground had been in use for golf as early as 1858 by the Jameson family who built their own private course, starting by their home, to the present 15th green. The Jamesons, of Scottish origin, established the Jameson Whiskey Distillery in 1780, and brought their favorite pastime with them. Eventually, the Jamesons leased the land to Portmarnock with John Jameson becoming the first President of the Club, George Ross the first Captain, and Pickeman being the first Honorary Secretary.

 

Laying out the first nine holes

Apparently Pickeman, laid out the first nine holes, with his countryman, Mungo Park, winner of the Open Championship in 1874, “consulting” on the greens in addition to his role as the Club’s first professional.

A second nine was added two years later with the involvement of another Scot, George Coburn, who hailed from East Lothian. A skillful player, Coburn, at just nineteen years of age, was engaged to replace Mungo Park as the Club professional. He had gained valuable greenkeeping experience with Old Tom Morris, and is even thought to have assisted Old Tom with the New Course at St Andrews when he designed it in 1895.

Coburn’s tenure at the Club lasted ten years, after which he participated in a number of Open Championships at St. Andrews, Sandwich, Muirfield and Prestwick and he eventually moved to the United States in 1912, where he carried on his career.

 

The rich history of championships at Portmarnock

Harry Bradshaw, the Club professional for 40 years

Portmarnock carried on impressively too, as the home of many famous professionals including Willy Nolan, who set the St Andrews Old Course record of 67 in 1933, Eddie Hackett who went on to become Ireland’s premier course architect, and Harry Bradshaw, who in addition to many tournament wins, continued on as the Club professional for 40 years. He was succeeded by Peter Townsend, who was both a Walker Cup (1965) and Ryder Cup player (1969 and 1971).

When Townsend left in 1991, Joey Purcell, who had been an Irish Amateur International in 1973, came on board to follow in the footsteps of this esteemed group of men. Upon Purcell’s retirement in 2019, Francis Howley was appointed the Club Professional.

Padraig Harrington

Then there’s the championships hosted at this venerable Club, which include the Irish Open Championships, The Amateur Championships, The Irish Close Championship, the British Amateur Championship in 1949 and 2019, the only two times it was played outside the United Kingdom, The Canada Cup (now the World Cup), won by the team of Arnold Palmer and Sam Snead. The Walker Cup in 1991 hosted by Portmarnock concluded with an American victory with a team led by Phil Mickelson and David Duval, playing against some of Ireland’s top amateurs including Padraig Harrington, Paul McGinley and Garth McGimpsey.

 

Having great time on the Perfect Peninsula

So on this perfect peninsula, full of sandy soil, with such a rich history and tradition and a membership consisting of the who’s who of Ireland (that would include Top 100 panelists Kevin McGrath, and Adrian Morrow who were also joining us today—and Peter Webster who was with his family celebrating a biggish birthday with and “0” in it) it is fair to say that we were all looking forward to our golf round on such hallowed dew-swept ground.

Portmarnock 18th green

Anticipating our visit, the officers of Portmarnock organized a match for us. Kevin and I were paired with Gary Johnstone, the golf course superintendent, whose ball striking was as good as any professional on tour, and Shane Browne, a member who had just come off a win with his partner in the annual, prestigious Elm Park Mixed Foursomes event the previous day.

Too bad I couldn’t reincarnate as a competitive golfer successfully or often enough — Kevin and I lost our match on the 15th hole, but we never lost our enjoyment of being on the legendary links. This would be Kevin’s home course for decades, along with Lahinch in Co. Clare, where we live in the summer—when we’re home, that is.

After our “match,” there was a festive air in the bar, with Brian Dunnion ordering a glass of sauvignon blanc for me. One after another, the officers of the Club all appeared, many in coat and tie. At one stage, a tall, muscular man with a shock of white hair and dazzling smile entered the bar. I said to Brian, “what famous actor does this man remind me of?”

Brian said, “Why don’t you ask him yourself,” and then tapped the gentleman on the shoulder.

“What actor do you remind me of with your dazzling movie-star good looks?”

With a characteristic kind of drawl and squint of the eye, he answered, “Would it be John Wayne?”

A big laugh erupted that would have broken any iceberg, but there were none in the genial waters of our bonhomie. The entire room full of officers—John Wayne’s real name being Barry Doyle (the Honorary Secretary – or Hon Sec)—were as warm as the welcome sunshine.

When we drifted into the member’s inner sanctum of the Pickeman Room, John Power, the Captain, pointed to the only open window and said, “You know Gary Player, the famous golfer?”

“Sure I do,” I replied, nodding my head.

“Well standing on the first tee right out there, he drove his ball right through this window!”

The vision absolutely cracked me up—a pull hook like that if there were no building in the way would have landed behind him!

During our grand lunch with a lovely lamb entree, the wine and the laughter flowed. Finally some of the panelists took the opportunity to ask Gary questions about the presentation and maintenance of the course.

When he was asked about how he kept control of the meadow grasses, he told us how every stalk of grass produced 10,000 seed heads each season. This certainly boggled my mind.

Having been born in Scotland, not far from Aberdeen, Gary has now followed in the footsteps of the Scottish founders, the early professionals and greenkeepers, whose hands and minds have shaped the links. He is keenly aware of the significance of being a good steward of the all the land — including the wild areas — to maintain the natural character as much as possible.

Johnstone relishes his role to tend to the land that has seen hundreds, if not thousands of famous people and golfers.

Like so many seeds of grass, famous or not, guardians of the links land, members and visitors alike, have contributed to the impressive lore of this ever-perfect peninsula.

Portmarnock, 6th hole and lilies pond