Daisy Month on Askernish

Daisy Month on Askernish

Sugar white beaches and turquoise waters

We were hoping to get to Askernish Golf Club by 2 PM today (June 25th) but it all depended on the ferry crossing from Harris to North Uist (Uibhist). Then we had to drive down through the Isle of Benbecula (Beinn nam Fadhla or Beinn na Faoghla) on to South Uist. Uist is pronounced “You – ist”. Causeways connect all these lower islands of the Outer Hebrides and we were never sure when we’d reached South Uist.

The journey took us along a spectacular low-lying coastline with sugar white beaches and turquoise waters. You could forget you were 57.26 latitude (higher than Moscow) and think you were in the Caribbean. South Uist has a bedrock of Lewisian Gneiss which is part of the Earth’s deep ancient crust. This rock is the oldest in the British Isles and it was brought to the surface by tectonic movements.

By the time we reached the Lochboisdale Hotel and climbed the stairs to our room, it was already 2 PM. We figured it didn’t matter much, since it wasn’t like having a tee time at Muirfield, which is a highly perishable commodity. At Muirfield there is no being late. You might not even be able to go off the 10th tee. You’ll probably just have to forfeit your round altogether.

After we changed into our golf gear, we hustled back into our car and drove the few miles to Askernish Golf Club. We pulled up beside the small building that functions as a cafe on one side and a smallish pro shop on the other. The front door was locked and a sign taped to the window proclaimed “CLOSED”.

We looked around for an honesty box (it allows you to pay your green fee on trust) but then Kevin said, “C’mon, let’s go play and pay our green fee tomorrow. Just as we turned around to head to course, the door sprung open and Jennifer Macleod greeted us with a big smile. She had been inside restocking the wee pro shop, so we were able to pay our green fee after all. Thank goodness, because we were able to obtain a scorecard and a yardage book that also had a course map. That turned out to be a big bonus.

Like children, we romped over to the first tee, giddy with excitement. Our drives found the fairway and we were off!

For the first three holes we were euphoric, in spite of the strong wind and frigid temperature. To be playing the Old Tom Morris course that had been “lost” and then “found” was an ambition I’d had for several years. I didn’t want to do much research online ahead of time so I could approach the adventure as a blissfully naive golfing pilgrim.

Now that I am writing a story about it, here is the history from the Askernish Golf Club website:

Askernish Golf Club bordering sea shore

“In June 1891 ‘Old’ Tom Morris accompanied by his companion Horace Hutchinson travelled to South Uist at the request of the landowners to inspect the machair lands with a view to laying out a new course. ‘Old’ Tom eventually laid out eighteen holes on the rolling dunes of Askernish Farm, although he declared that the choice of links land available was ‘staggering’. Horace mentioned the trip in a magazine called ‘Golf’, the forerunner of Golf Illustrated, for which he was to contribute regularly over the next thirty years.

“The pair continued their journey, moving north to Stornoway to inspect a new course which had been completed the year before.

“During its early years the course would have been used to entice visitors to the island, as a form of sport to be enjoyed along with the traditional pursuits of fishing and shooting. We know from Frederick Rea’s book A School in South Uist that some of the residents were regular players but these would have been mostly confined to the local clergy, doctors and teachers. It was maintained by local farm workers using scythes — they were also seconded as caddies for the visiting gentry.

“Askernish farm was adopted into crofting tenure in 1922 and a lack of consistent maintenance led to the course’s general decline until Scottish and Northern Airways started a regular air service from Renfrew to Askernish in 1936.”

The first person I spoke to who actually played the course was Angus Watson. He told us a couple of years ago, when we met up with him at Turnberry, that he played in The Askernish Open! I was amused to hear they had a Texas Scramble format one day and even a “ceilidh” (pronounced ‘kay-lee’) in the maintenance sheds, with music, dancing, and an insane amount of drinking.

 

South Uist’s most famous descendant

Apart from the falling down drunk drinking part of his story, I was even more determined to get to this utterly remote golfing heaven. And now we were here! But where were our tee shots? We were playing the fourth hole, named “Flora” as a tribute to South Uist’s most famous descendant.

Flora MacDonald, 1749

If not for Flora MacDonald (Gaelic: Fionnghal nic Dhòmhnaill, 1722 – 1790), Bonnie Idiot Prince Charlie, the boneheaded Young Pretender, who badly lost the Battle of Culloden, might never have escaped being captured or murdered.

Flora was courageous and cunning. For her role in protecting and transporting the fugitive Prince, she was imprisoned in the Tower of London for an entire year.

She was eventually released in 1747 under a general amnesty and returned to Scotland, where in 1750 she married her kinsman, Allan MacDonald of Kingsburgh. Flora was a member of the Macdonalds of Sleat, but upon marrying Allan and after struggling financially, they emigrated to North Carolina in 1773. Since they backed the British government during the American Revolutionary War that started in 1775, they wound up having to surrender their American estates and eventually sailed back to Scotland. They spent their last days in Penduin, Skye, where Flora died in 1790 at the age of 68.

While on Skye, we went to see the extraordinary 28-foot high Celtic Cross that marks her grave at the Kilmuir Cemetery. It was a very moving experience, standing atop a windy hill, gazing up to see the granite memorial, etched with South Uist, her birthplace. Some puzzle pieces are starting to fit together.

Having learned some of the history of the bloody Battle of Culloden, which took place on April 16, 1746, I knew how the redcoats of Cumberland’s army bludgeoned the fierce but exhausted Clansmen on the Highland moor near Nairn. Charlie escaped and lived out the rest of his life in Rome, where he was born; but I do not know the details of where he went while on the run.

Flora is considered a hero; Charlie not so much. He never again had any contact with the people who fought and died for him. In a large oil painting by Angus MacPhee in the Skye Museum of Island Life, Charlie is depicted turning his back on the Jacobite Highlanders who took up his cause to return the throne to the Stuarts. He failed so miserably, then left his countrymen to be slaughtered by the Duke of Cumberland. The behavior of Cumberland’s troops, who followed orders to rob and plunder all food and livestock, then burn the Highlander’s homes to the ground, earned him the title of “The Butcher.”

Any highlanders who survived the pillaging and burning, were banned from wearing their tartans, playing bagpipes, and were barred from speaking their own Gaelic language for years to come. Such was the devastating aftermath of Charlie’s bungled bid to rule Scotland. All of this history is embedded in the Hebridean Islands like the Lewisian Gneiss.

 

Back to golf on the carpet of daisies

We found it very frustrating to lose our white balls in the sea of white daisies that blanketed the fairways. There are few things that rob your round of joy, but when you know your well-executed shot finds the intended target and then is nowhere to be found, that is one of them. Perhaps if we were playing with pink or orange balls, we could have detected them without spending ten minutes or so scouring the vicinity of their landing area.

But both Kevin and I play white balls and we did not make the adjustment to adapt to the playing conditions of the course. We gave up after playing the first nine and could see from the course map that we could cut across to the 16th hole, then play the last two and find our way back to our car.

We did come back the next day and began by meeting with Allan MacDonald and Jennifer Macleod, before heading out… again loyal to our white balls!

We learned that the course is now owned by the local community and Allan, the Head Greenkeeper, is the only full-time person looking after the course. Well, no wonder the fairways are covered in daisies.

I asked, “How often do you mow?”

Allan replied, “Once a week this time of year. You have come during daisy month. Next month they’ll all be gone!”

Oh, now we know. I would also try to do a better job of embracing Andrew Greig’s philosophy, so elegantly expressed in his book Preferred Lies: “The course, as always, is a given. It can’t be adapted. I must adapt to it.”

When Kevin and I commented about the profusion of menacing and even dangerous rabbit holes, Allan declared, “People say they like a natural course but then they don’t want any nature. The rabbits have as much a right to be here as we do.” But I was thinking, can’t they have all their deep holes and warrens over in the rough and just let us have the fairways?

We had a better round the second time, many pars for Kevin and a couple for me, in spite of the bumpy, slow greens. We did adapt a little better, having to hit our putts with absolute conviction, especially into the wind. Too many were left short or I didn’t read the break right in order to have a feel-good kind of score. Kevin was going great until the wheels came off on the 14th hole and then his round unraveled too.

Golf in a place like Askernish is exhilarating and perhaps in equal measure, humbling. It felt like we were playing golf more like it would have been 400 years ago. It was primitive, even.

We have all become so accustomed to perfectly manicured tees, fairways and greens. It’s almost tragic, in a way, that golf has evolved to where our expectations are such that we don’t want to see any daisies or buttercups on the tee boxes (I didn’t mind them actually because I hadn’t lost my ball yet!) or on the fairways. Thank goodness there were no daisies on the greens.

We were happy to have a diagram of the holes in our yardage book, but other than that, you just have to navigate as best you can, using your eyesight.

I thought I might already know the answer before asking Allan, “What about having a 150-yard marker on the longer holes… would that be something you’d consider?” Then I sheepishly added, “Or would that go against your ethos?”

He smiled. “No, there won’t be any markers…you’ve got your yardage book and that is all you need.”

So, if you enjoy a memorable challenge, make the journey to the Outer Hebrides and play Askernish. Likely, you will already be aware of the course’s historic significance and recognize that it is a “must play” no matter what it takes to get there. The sojourn itself becomes a badge of honor for the passionate golf enthusiast, and is a salute from all those who revere Old Tom.

Daisy Month on Askernish story is the newest addition in Taba’s recently published Golfers, Scotland Is Calling

Gift of Time

Gift of Time

Recommended by the Winner

I came across a fascinating book — The Obstacle is the Way — by Ryan Holiday, in the most unlikely way.

Like millions of golfers around the globe, I had been watching The Players Championship on television, and after the first round had been completed on March 12th, the rest of the tournament was cancelled. Cancelled!

On the 125-yard shortened version of the par-3 17th at Seminole in the charity golf event at Seminole on Sunday, May 17, 2020, Rory McIlroy hit his tee shot to 10 feet to win the closest-to-the-pin tiebreaker in the competition.

Because the highly contagious Coronavirus had become a pandemic, the whole world was shutting down. In the U.S., Governors issued Executive Orders telling us to stay home. To shelter in place. Life, as we knew it, ceased to exist.

At some stage, I caught a sliver of an interview on TV with Rory McIlroy, where he described some books he was reading that influenced his on-course performance. McIlroy is the current Number 1 player in the world. My ears perked up. I was curious and wanted to explore The Obstacle book that he mentioned.

The minute I began reading The Obstacle is the Way, I was astonished, because it felt like it was written just for me, delivering the precise information that I needed in this moment. I was not just coping with the Stay at Home Order, I was faced with having to move — in the middle of a pandemic!

 

Move in the Middle of the Pandemic

I was not exactly cheerful about my circumstances. I was leaving my spacious sanctuary for a much smaller space. Shrinking is just not my nature. Expanding is what I choose. Always.

My own daily mantra/prayer/affirmation always starts out:

I experience only abundance…in lifestyle, in inspiration, in great connections, in finances.

I’ve added to that…and wisdom.

Then I go on:

I give thanks for all abundance and support I have in my life.

I’ve added to that too…and guidance.

And look what showed up — this book!

 

The Obstacle is the Way

THE OBSTACLE IS THE WAY – “The Timeless Art of Turning Trials into Triumph”

The book offers the ancient wisdom of Stoicism but translated into 21st century language and provides examples of everyday obstacles we face. The core of Stoicism is to know the difference between what is in our control and what is not and teaches us to focus on things where our own input matters (things we can control) and don’t waste time on things that are not in our control.

The COVID-19 crisis has forced millions of people to isolate from everyone outside of our homes. To live, shall we say, a much more quiet, less social, life.

For many of us, the virus is a monumental obstacle, disrupting all areas of life. But if we recognize that the most important thing we can control is how we adapt to our new circumstances, instead of focusing on fear and other negative aspects of the experience that make us even more afraid and frustrated, we can embrace how precious life is.

 

The Gift of Time

Maybe some of us have forgotten what we value. What we cherish. But by putting our attention on the process of being the best version of ourselves in these challenging times, we have a chance to discover who we really are.

This time of restrictions and confinement came with an unexpected gift for all of us — less running round and more time to slow down and catch our breath.

It is a time to take an internal audit. To do a reset. To explore what is important, now that so many distractions are absent from our daily lives. We can practice being more in the present moment and embrace the gift we are given — the Gift of Time.

In my own case, I can now embrace the benefit of a smaller space. As I applied the guidance of Stoicism in dealing with my move, I discovered that my smaller space is enabling me to be free to travel with less worry (or no worry!) when the world eases into some kind of normality.

 

The Gift of Time by Taba Dale has been published on Golf News Hub

The Unicorn Tree

The Unicorn Tree

Morning stroll on the golf course

Just when you least expect it, magic happens. I have walked this course twice before while in Spain at Santa Maria Golf Club, but I didn’t notice something out of the ordinary until yesterday. So to be fair, it didn’t magically happen — in actuality, it was there all along.

This is why occasionally, I like to leave my clubs behind, and walk a course while Kevin plays. The world goes by much slower as you put one foot in front of the other, and focus on the wonders of nature, rather than your game.

 

Trees provide more than just shade

At one point, I found myself standing behind a tall cork oak tree with a very thick trunk, several yards from the green of the par-3 fifteenth hole. Kevin’s foursome was holing out and this happened to be a nice shady spot to wait. The tee box of the 15th was so high up it was no longer visible to me, but I had become familiar with its dizzying height while walking along with Kevin’s group before, when he played with the Orange Tree Golf Society. The society is run by Frank Ammar, owner of the Orange Tree Restaurant in Marbella; and it attracts an interesting assortment of English, Irish, and German expats. A golfer from Norway often plays in this league too.

While Kevin’s group was making their way to the sixteenth tee box, I stayed planted right where I was, checking my iPhone app for how many steps I had walked. Nearly five miles! Since I wasn’t playing, just strolling, I was rather proud of myself for that accomplishment.

 

 

The mighty oak does a mighty good job

A moment later, I heard a THWACK! A badly pulled tee shot from the following group struck the tree with such force I jumped a foot!

The golfer who’d fired the shot was oblivious; completely unaware that he’d nearly nailed me with a 100 mph golf ball—but for the tree.

The ball ricocheted off the oak and sped like a bullet toward my group who were on the next tee getting ready to attack the fairway of the par-4 sixteenth hole. But Kevin and crew were blissfully unaware of what had happened —rather nearly happened to me. While they all hit their drives, I emerged from behind the mighty oak shield and hung back to point to where the errant, and probably scarred, ball had landed.

Having literally dodged a dimpled white bullet, then performed a much appreciated courtesy, that probably saved the golfer and his foursome many frustrating minutes searching for his ball, I went to catch up with Kevin’s group.

 

The magic around us – when we see it

This heavily shaded part of the course was still wet from the morning dew, so I opted for the cart path. I took about ten steps, then froze when I happened to notice an oddity I’d never seen before in my life—and I travel the world. Had events not conspired to put me in that place at that moment, I would have missed this magical specimen, rising out of the earth before me. It wasn’t like the lush, undulating sea of spotted Spanish clover that Kevin and I saw on our walk near our hotel room. Nor was it like the giant, colorful lantana bush outside the gates of the fragrant orange grove. It was even more sublime than hearing the babbling brook near the dense stand of bamboo while the birds were twittering high in the towering pines.

 

The bulbous shape at the bottom was like a wheel-thrown vase with a footed base. Only it wasn’t a vase— it was a tree! Now completely fascinated, I saw that the grey bark of this bizarre flora was covered in hard pointed thorns. Like a rose bush, but ten times bigger. When I walked up to it and took a closer look, it appeared as if the tree was covered with hundreds of tiny unicorns.
Later, I looked it up online. It’s called a Ceiba Speciosa, or silk floss tree, due to the silk-like fibers displayed when the fruit pod opens.

 

Regardless of its scientific name, in my magical world, I have renamed it The Unicorn Tree!

A Symphony of Golf

A Symphony of Golf

“Golf architects are the Rembrandts and Beethovens of their domains.”

 

“The game of golf has often been compared with music. In this essay, GHS member Taba Dale, who loves exploring the game through the written word as well as on the course,  ponders the game’s symphonic synergies.” – Jim Davis, The Golf Heritage Society

 

Why do I say, “Golf architects are the Rembrandts and Beethovens of their domains?”

And not the Rembrandts and Monets of their domain, which at first blush would be consistent with how I describe course designers as artists. Their canvas is the largest in the world — the planet Earth.

I believe that golf course designers are also composers. They are composing an experience for us, taking us on a journey that, like music, when listened to deeply, takes us on a journey. Some designers will start with a welcoming first hole, a handshake, if you will. A straight forward, gentle test to allow us to acclimate to being on a golf course. We have left our everyday world. We are in this unique landscape now.

The assignments of the holes to follow are usually more challenging. Each hole is a puzzle and we are engaged to be more creative or focused, and find resources within us to achieve an outcome: Get the ball into the hole in the fewest strokes (in stroke play).

A fabulous course that illustrates a gentle opening handshake is Kingsbarns in Fife, Scotland. Designed by Kyle Philips, it exemplifies outstanding creativity. The first and second holes start out softly and become exuberant very soon after, perhaps like Beethoven’s Symphony No.7. Ludwig van Beethoven was a German composer and pianist. He was one of the most recognized and influential musicians of the classical and romantic era, and is considered to be one of the greatest composers of all time.

St. George’s Hill, a golfing gem outside London, is a Harry Colt masterpiece. Threaded through heather, silver birch and stately Scots pine, constantly undulating, the genius of Colt’s design is on constant display. Like Mozart, an enduringly popular classical composer, Colt’s influence was profound and anything but subtle.

Leonardo da Vinci, the Italian genius, fits the “master of his domain” thesis, albeit a much expanded one as he excelled in drawing, painting, sculpture and architecture. His most iconic work, the Mona Lisa, could be considered on par with the Alister MacKenzie’s Cypress Point. In both, the monumentality of the composition is undisputed.

“A Symphony of Golf” by Taba Dale published in GHS Journal

Cypress Point might also be a perfect walk with headsets tuned to Johann Sebastian Bach’s Prelude In C Major, a musical masterpiece of perfection that would perfectly suit MacKenzie’s exquisite terrain, particularly the back-to-back par 3 fifteenth and sixteenth holes.

Occasionally, there might be a seeming lull in the round, a respite from holes by the sea where we are battling the wind. Or a few holes might take us to different terrain, where the player has a change of scenery and rhythm. Then there comes a great crescendo, like in a musical composition, where we feel the exaltation — key word: feel.

Surely you have felt such a thing at the highest point of a links course, or the signature hole of a masterwork such as Augusta National, Pine Valley, or Pinehurst No. 2. Here, the increase of intensity is due a visual experience combined with the challenge the master designer has planned for us. One that cannot but thrill a true golfer who “hears” the symphony of the course in his mind and heart.

At such moments, Rembrandt and Beethoven, MacKenzie and Colt, roll off the tongue like a very smooth Pinot Noir. But that brings another element into the conversation, one best left to the 19th Hole and a consideration of which golf course architects are best with which types of wine. Or whisky.

Meeting the Great Irish Elk

Meeting the Great Irish Elk

Extinct Irish Elk Turning Heads

 

Motorists driving by make ridiculously dangerous U-turns to come back and stare at this magnificent beast. Bicyclists risk near collisions as they stop dead in their tracks to take a closer look.

Thought to be long extinct, the giant creature stood a towering ten feet high with his antlers spanning eight feet.

How did this monstrous deer pull itself out of a peat bog and find its way to the little fishing village of Liscannor in County Clare? Just ask Andrew Carragher, the sculptor who created him.

Andrew cruised into Clare with the sensational sculpture, riding high on a flatbed trailer behind his large navy blue van.

The elk was constructed from hundreds of branches of twisted, turned and woven wood to form his muscular body and the enormous rack of antlers. The animal pulsed with energy. As if on high alert, the elk’s colossal head was turned around to look behind him, sensing a possible predator, or maybe a chance to mate.

He was on view in front of Ann Daly’s Atlantic Way Gallery, a terrific new addition to “The Strip” of little Liscannor.

 

The Artist

I spotted a blue-jean clad fellow with the aura of a woodsman, sitting on a low stone wall chatting with a young lad. I butted into their conversation and asked, “Are you the artist?”

“Yes, I am,” said the soft-spoken woodsman, who looked to be whittling at a moss-covered four foot branch.

“Sorry to interrupt,” I said apologetically. “That’s an amazing work of art you have created.”

Andrew Carragher, Irish sculptor

With his long, thick brown hair whipping in the breeze, he answered shyly, “Thank you very much.”

Small in frame, with a bushy brown beard, I searched for his eyes, covered by his long bangs, before engaging him further. I sensed an old soul behind them.

“Can you tell me more about it? What kind of wood did you use?”

With that, the artist excused himself from the boy, and got up from the stone wall to enlighten me. His hot pink smartphone was poking out of the pocket of his plaid flannel shirt. This modern piece of technology seemed to completely contrast to this otherwise connected-to-the-earth person.

Now standing, he was not much taller than me at 5’ 1”, and I noticed a bit of grey had crept into his beard.

“Some ash, alder and some sycamore,” he said as we both moved closer to the massive animal. Next to one of the big hoofs was a display of postcards featuring the sculpture in the clearing of a forest of tall evergreen trees. Price € 2.50.

I just happened to have that amount and handed it to the artist.

“You’re all right,” he said, not wanting to accept it.

I gave it to him anyway and picked up a card. On the back was his name and his website. Later, a visit to his site revealed that Andrew earned an Honors Degree in Fine Art Sculpture as a graduate of the West Wales School of Art, Glammorgan University.

The Great Irish Elk sculpture by Andrew Carragher, Ireland / Photo by Conor McEneaney

“Where was this picture taken?” I was curious about where he’d staged the arresting photograph on the front of the card.

“Slieve Gullion,” he replied, with a Sean Connery-esque kind of “shh-ing” lisp.

I couldn’t quite understand the word after Slieve, so he asked, “Can I write on the back of the card?”

I quickly fished out a pen from my black Prada messenger bag. Not only did he write “Slieve Gullion, Co. Louth/Armagh,” he began to draw a picture and explained, “This area is known as the mythical land of Ireland.”

 

The Mythical Land of Ireland

First, Andrew made a drawing that resembled a reclining pregnant woman. Up at the top of her belly, he drew a small rectangle and said, “There is a cairn here. On the twenty-first of December, the winter solstice, the light passes through an opening, and illuminates the cairn.”

“Is it like Newgrange?” I asked. Having been to Newgrange, I knew it was a prehistoric monument with a grand passage tomb built around 3200 BC. The passage leads into a chamber with three alcoves and they, too, are aligned with the rising sun at the winter solstice.

“Yes, like that,” he nodded.

Additional research later on informed that the summit of Slieve Gullion is the highest surviving passage tomb in Ireland. The monument dates back to between 4000 B.C. and 2500 B.C., making it up to 6000 years old. That means it could be 3000 years older than the Pyramids of Giza, and nearly 4000 years older than Stonehenge. Like Newgrange, the tomb is aligned to the setting sun at the winter solstice.

Andrew drew the mountain with the cairn. He also expertly rendered, no bigger than one inch high, a perfect map of Ireland, and put a dot where Slieve Gullion is located.

Again, when he was explaining that this whole area plays a prominent role in the mythology of Ireland, I couldn’t quite catch the word he was saying when describing a particular character. These Irish words sounded so foreign to my ears. He wrote: “Cuchullian.”

Cú Chulainn, the mythical Irish hero

Of course, that required more research. It turned out that the name can be spelled “CúChulainn,”or “Cú Chulaind,” or “Cúchulainn.” No wonder I was stumped! Regardless of the spelling, this mythological Irish hero was said to be an incarnation of the God Lugh (pronounced “Loo”), and he took the form of a fierce guard dog that he killed in self-defense. Then, as the story goes, he offered to take its place until a replacement could be reared. In more modern times, Cu Chulainn is often referred to as the “Hound of Ulster.”

What I found especially fascinating is that the legend of Cú Chulainn is very similar to the story of the Persian hero Rostam, the Germanic Lay of Hildebrand. It also calls to mind the Greek epic hero Heracles, suggesting that just like the Great Irish Elk that roamed vast distances by crossing the land bridges after the thick glacial ice had melted, other cultures in far flung places created similar myths in mind bridges of their collective consciousness.

To be the most famous son of Lugh was no small thing, considering Lugh was said to be a Celtic god of storms, especially thunderstorms, and possessed several magical weapons. One in particular, an invincible spear, is said to have never missed its target. And this spear was so bloodthirsty it would often endeavor to fight without anyone wielding it. Presumably, Cú Chulainn inherited the mantle of all this lore for future generations of warriors who would avenge the many murders of his mythical ancestors.

Scores of books have been written over the centuries about the wives, wars, and powerful magic attributed to these legendary figures. Suffice to say, our Great Irish Elk emerged from Andrew’s fertile imagination, carried in the well-read head of this County Louth native. County Louth, steeped in myth, legend and history, is named after the village Louth, which is in turn, named after Lugh.

“So this animal of yours is really monumental. How big did they really get?” I asked Andrew.

“It got to be seven feet at the shoulder and the antlers could span twelve feet. I would like to go bigger, but I couldn’t because then I couldn’t get it out of the shed I was working in.”

I was mesmerized by the giant creature, that looked as if it could bolt away at any moment. All I could manage was, “This is magnificent.”

Andrew, drawing a crowd now, was on a roll. “It was called the Great Irish Elk because this is where they found so many examples of the antlers. They roamed from here to Siberia and Canada. It ran across the whole northern hemisphere—of the whole planet. I think it got as far as China.”

The great Irish elk (reconstruction, museum exhibit)

We were all entranced. It really hit home then; I’d read that long ago Ireland was entirely land-locked before it became an island.

The artist expounded, “They were found in the bogs and the lakes. Even in Dublin.”

“There are bogs in Dublin?” I blurted out in astonishment.

“There are bogs everywhere. Even in Dublin,” he explained. “They did some excavating. Found the bones of a Great Irish Elk that was 20,000 years old.”

I loved listening to Andrew. The word “years” sounded like “yearsh.” “Horse” was “horsh.” “Person” was “pairshon.”

I gazed at the perfectly formed hoof of the giant animal. “How long did it take you to make him?”

“About seventeen months, on and off,” Andrew replied. “Probably four months, if I had worked on it straight through.”

At this point, Andrew realized he hadn’t asked, and said, “What is your name?”

I shook his tender hand and said, “Taba Dale.”

“Nice to meet you, Taba,” Andrew said warmly.

“What would a piece like this sell for?” I queried.

After a short hesitation, Andrew replied, “About 15,000 euro.”

That would be close to $17,000 (U.S. dollars). Good, I thought. I was glad he did not undervalue his work.

 

Taken by the Andrew’s Elk

Just then, a man on bicycle dismounted. With helmet in hand, he came over to admire the impressive elk sculpture.

In awe, he remarked to Andrew, “This is EX-traordinary!” Hardly able to contain himself, he continued, “I’m out in the country and I have a place. Something like… something like that would be… that’s just unbeeeeelievable. Do you have a website?”

Andrew gave him a card and said good-naturedly, “I would love to work with somebody to create something —to create something to their liking. Whatever it is. This is to my liking.”

The swank cyclist, sporting a neon yellow shirt and wrap-around sunglasses, said, “We’re staying with friends—they have an enormous place in Donegal.” He stared up at the elk’s gigantic rack of antlers, and gushed, “Something like that would be just fantastic. I must let them know about it.”

“I’m sure it would be a perfect setting for this animal,” Andrew replied.

“So how much is that?” The cyclist asked, as if price was no object.

Since I’d just asked the question myself, Andrew turned to me. “What did I say, Taba?”

Not missing a beat, I replied, “Upwards of 15,000 euro.”

“Jaysus!” the man said with a hearty laugh. “I can see it. I can see it. Maybe not for me, but it is absoluuuuuuuutely extraordinary!”

To keep the cyclist enthused, I asked Andrew, “Have you done a smaller version? Or could you do one?”

Andrew chimed right in, “I would love to do a commission. I would love to do a smaller version.”

The cyclist inquired, “What’s your background? Do you just work in wood?”

“I work in all materials. I work in glass as well.”

The exuberant cyclist reiterated, “This is absolutely EX-traooooordinary! Where are you based?”

“County Louth.” (Sounds like “Loud.”)

“In Louth!” The cyclist did a quick calculation and realized that is about 300 miles away.

“How come you’re down here?”

“Just spinning about,” Andrew said with a smile.

I asked the cyclist in jest, “How come you’re down here?”

“We’re over at the Doolin Folk Festival.”

The cyclist tuned into my accent and asked, “And where are you from?”

“Originally, Washington, D.C., but don’t hold it against me.”

I didn’t want to draw attention away from Andrew and his creation. I was glad when I heard the cyclist shout to his partner, “Rita, isn’t it amazing?”

“Yes, yes it is fabulous.” Rita agreed as she walked her bicycle over to us.

Rita’s mate reiterated, “Absolutely extra—oooooor—dinary! This is the sculptor here—the creator!”

The Great Irish Elk sculpture by Andrew Carragher, Ireland / Photo by Conor McEneaney

Andrew continued to answer more questions posed by the cyclist and Rita. “This piece here is ash, this is alder and a few random pieces like sycamore…the antlers—I picked them up very early—just had the frame right, had the stance right…not sure what kind of wood that is…like to find out for meself…”

I excused myself and said goodbye to Andrew. I hoped that the discussion with the cyclists would eventually lead to a sale or commission for him.

I wandered home in wistful contemplation, remembering the work of Deborah Butterfield that I saw at the Phoenix Art Museum when I first moved to Arizona. She is best known for her depictions of horses made from found objects and natural materials, such as wood.

I imagined Andrew’s Elk at the PAM, giving Butterfield’s sculpture, titled “Ponder (Reflexionar)” a run for its money; and making the statement: “There’s a new alpha male in town.”

 

Not the End of the Story

While I was immersed in writing The Great Irish Elk story and shared Andrew’s insight about how the area of Slieve Gullion played such a prominent role in the mythology of Ireland, I realized that he is truly an original thinker and is very connected to the world that surrounds him. For me, Andrew had expanded the intersection of art and other disciplines such as anthropology.

Then I wrote to Andrew and asked him to tell me more about his process creating his art. The intellectual power and warmth of what he came back with genuinely moved me. With Andrew’s permission I am happy to share his profound narrative about his art:

Hello Taba,

The Elk is a result of my investigation into my surroundings. I have always felt undernourished in terms of the explanation that is presented of Irish mythology and what the ancient stories really encapsulated.

I found an approach of study into my local landscape that is eternal, practical, logical and most importantly spiritual. This approach has brought me to a loving relationship with nature.

How so may you ask ! It begins with inspiration from years of study by Anthony Murphy and Richard Moore which is encapsulated in a book named Island of the Setting Sun.

The great Irish Elk is physically and more importantly spiritually valid in our collective history and ancestral memory. And for me it is fulfilling, attempting to reveal its essence. I hope this does not confuse things but the language that chose me was sculpture with nature’s raw material, showing the life of the trees in this instance reincarnated into what I hope does them justice.

Further study from this starting point has brought me to decode ancient mythology all around the world with its common practical and very spiritual journey through time. And its personification as time shifted in unison or regulation from the heavenly elements and relieved its god-like beauty in Earth’s nature which we can touch, see, and it nourishes our body and soul.

That eventually brought me to express what I have learned through my language of sculpture. This was a perfect medium to have a knowing relationship with nature or in my case trees.

Disengaging in preconceived thought or planning of construction was the only option for full expression, I was confronted with the option of approaching the material (fallen tree branches) devoid of logical selection. But lovingly trusting the branches would direct me to were it would express more than my human eye could see.

I am honored that you showed interest and enjoyed contemplating The Great Irish Elk. I believe the work you are carrying out in your writing books with your observations is highly commendable and of great importance.

Kindest regards,

Andrew